Just Grow Something | Evidence-Based Home Gardening

It’s June, your tomatoes are climbing, your corn is waist-high, and the internet is full of fertilizing advice—most of it missing the most important variable: timing. In this episode, we dig into what your vegetables need right now at mid-season, why nitrogen timing is the thing most gardeners get wrong, how fruiting crops and leafy crops have completely different needs, and when fertilizing can actually hurt instead of help. We’ll cover how to read your plants for deficiency signs, how to side-dress correctly, and why the most common mid-season mistake isn’t under-fertilizing—it’s fertilizing at the wrong time with the wrong form. Grounded in university extension research and my own experience farming through Missouri summers, this one will give you a clear, crop-by-crop picture of what to do right now. Let’s dig in.

Crop-by-Crop Quick Reference: Mid-Season Nitrogen Timing

LEAFY CROPS (lettuce, kale, chard, spinach, collards, arugula, basil)

When to side-dress: 3–4 weeks after transplanting or when 2–3 inches tall; repeat every 4–6 weeks for heavy-harvesting crops

Goal: steady nitrogen supply throughout season

Note: don’t exceed recommended rates—excess nitrogen increases pest/disease vulnerability

COLE CROPS (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower)

When to side-dress: approximately 30 days after transplanting, during active vegetative growth

Hold off once head formation begins

TOMATOES

When to side-dress: when first fruits are approximately one-third grown (golf ball size)

DO NOT apply nitrogen at transplant or during early fruit set—drives vegetative growth at expense of fruit

Second application: 2 weeks after first ripe fruit; third: 4 weeks later

Rate: 0.5 lb actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row per application

PEPPERS

When to side-dress: early vegetative growth before fruit set

Pull back after fruit is setting

SWEET CORN

When to side-dress: when plants are approximately one-third grown (knee-high)

Apply alongside rows, not into the whorl of leaves

May benefit from a second application before tasseling

CUCUMBERS / SQUASH / MELONS

When to side-dress: after vines are well-established and fruit is setting regularly

Not during early flowering window

For squash with blossom drop only: do not add nitrogen—address pollination instead

BEANS / PEAS (inoculated)

Mid-season nitrogen side-dressing generally not needed if seeds were inoculated

Extra nitrogen causes excessive leaf growth and reduced pod set

If not inoculated: apply light nitrogen early in vegetative growth only

Side-Dressing How-To

Move mulch aside before applying; replace afterward

Keep granular fertilizer 4–6 inches from plant stems to prevent burn

Work granular into top 1–2 inches of soil

Water in after application—nitrogen moves into the root zone with moisture

Organic options: blood meal or alfalfa pellets (work in lightly; slower to show results); fish emulsion (liquid, faster uptake, more frequent application needed)

Signs of Nutrient Deficiency

Nitrogen: yellowing starting on oldest, lowest leaves; stunted or stalled growth

Phosphorus: stunted growth; reddish-purple tint in leaf tissue (often triggered by cold soil, not low soil P)

Potassium: browning at leaf edges, starting with older leaves

Note: many of these symptoms overlap with stress from crowding, insufficient sun, compaction, waterlogged roots, or nematode damage—rule those out first

Common Myths Addressed

Myth: More fertilizer = more production. The research is clear: overapplied nitrogen causes excess vegetative growth at the expense of fruit, increases pest and disease vulnerability, and leaches into groundwater without benefiting plants.

Myth: If plants look off, they need fertilizer. Nutrient deficiency symptoms look almost identical to symptoms of watering problems, compaction, pH issues, root damage, and pest pressure. Identify the actual cause before applying anything.

Myth: Tomatoes need nitrogen all season long. Timing matters. Nitrogen during the early fruit-set window drives vegetative growth and reduces yields. Wait until fruit is sizing up before side-dressing.

Myth: Beans and peas are heavy feeders like corn. Inoculated legumes fix their own nitrogen from the air. Additional nitrogen pushes leaf growth at the expense of pods.

Resources

Get on my newsletter list: https://justgrowsomething.com (scroll to the bottom)
Soil test kit: https://amzn.to/4vqYMk1

University Extension Publications

University of Minnesota Extension – Quick Guide to Fertilizing Plants

Oregon State University Extension – Feed Your Vegetable Garden Midseason to Boost Growth and Yields

Oregon State University Extension – Vegetable Gardening in Oregon (EC 871)

University of Maryland Extension – Fertilizing Vegetable Gardens

University of Missouri Extension – Growing Home Garden Tomatoes (G6461)

University of Missouri Extension – Vegetable Gardening (MG 5) – Table 1: Recommended Nitrogen Side-Dressings

University of Missouri Extension IPM – Side-Dressing: Mid-Season Boost for Hungry Plants

Virginia Tech Extension – Fertilizing the Vegetable Garden (426-323)

Mississippi State University Extension – Fertilizing Vegetable Gardens

University of Nevada, Reno Extension – Fertilizing Your Vegetable Garden

 
Connect

Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com
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Every June, one of the most common questions that floods gardening groups, emails, and extension offices is some version of: “My tomato leaves are turning brown — do I have blight?” The confusion is completely understandable, because there are two diseases that get lumped under that word — and they are caused by completely different organisms, show up in different ways, and require completely different responses. Treating late blight like early blight — or vice versa — can mean the difference between saving your plants and losing your entire harvest.

In this episode, horticulturist and market farmer Karin Velez breaks both diseases down in plain language: what they look like, where they show up on the plant, what conditions favor them, how fast they move, what happens if you ignore them, and exactly what to do when you find either one. Whether you’re seeing spots on your lowest leaves or a whole section of your garden that looks like it got hit by frost overnight, this episode will help you figure out what you’re looking at — and what to do next.

Let’s dig in.

References and Resources

Captain Jack’s Copper Fungicide - https://amzn.to/43DKqAn

Penn State Extension — Tomato Diseases and Disorders in the Home Garden:

https://extension.psu.edu/tomato-diseases-and-disorders-in-the-home-garden

Penn State Extension — Scouting and Identifying Tomato Diseases:

https://extension.psu.edu/scouting-and-identifying-tomato-diseases

Penn State Extension — Tomato-Potato Late Blight in the Home Garden:

https://extension.psu.edu/tomato-potato-late-blight-in-the-home-garden

University of Georgia Extension — Common Tomato Diseases in Georgia (Bulletin B1285):

https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1285&title=common-tomato-diseases-in-georgia

UGA Extension, Madison County — Tomato Troubles:

https://site.extension.uga.edu/madison/2021/08/tomato-troubles/

University of Minnesota Extension — Late Blight of Tomato and Potato:

https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/late-blight

Michigan State University Extension — Organic Management of Early Blight on Tomato (Hausbeck Lab):

https://www.canr.msu.edu/hausbeck/Uploads/PDF/FS_Organic-Management-of-Early-Blight-on-Tomato.pdf

UC ANR / UC IPM — Late Blight of Tomato (Phytophthora infestans):

https://ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/tomato/late-blight/

Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbooks — Tomato Late Blight:

https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/tomato-solanum-lycopersicum-late-blight

Cornell University — Disease-Resistant Vegetable Varieties (late blight resistance):

https://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties/

Midwest Vegetable Production Guide — current fungicide recommendations for late blight (referenced by Penn State and UMN Extension): https://mwveguide.org/

USAblight.org — national real-time late blight tracking and outbreak alerts (when it’s working?): http://usablight.org/

Quick-Reference: Early Blight vs. Late Blight at a Glance

Pathogen type | Early Blight: true fungus (Alternaria solani)  |  Late Blight: water mold / oomycete (Phytophthora infestans)

Ideal temperature | Early Blight: 68–77°F (warm)  |  Late Blight: 60–78°F (cool to mild)

Where it starts | Early Blight: oldest/lowest leaves first  |  Late Blight: anywhere on the plant, no pattern

Lesion appearance | Early Blight: dark bullseye with concentric rings, yellow halo  |  Late Blight: large irregular dark oily blotch, gray-green edge, no rings

Underside of leaf | Early Blight: dark spores in lesion center  |  Late Blight: white downy/powdery growth at lesion margins in humidity

Speed | Early Blight: slow and progressive, weeks to months  |  Late Blight: explosive, can kill plant in ~14 days

Fruit symptoms | Early Blight: sunken dark spot at stem attachment  |  Late Blight: firm dark brown spot starting at fruit shoulders

Overwinters as | Early Blight: debris/soil/seeds in warm climates  |  Late Blight: infected potato tubers, volunteer plants

Fungicide type | Early Blight: copper, sulfur, standard fungicides  |  Late Blight: oomycete-specific only — NOT standard fungicides

Response urgency | Early Blight: act promptly, manageable with cultural controls  |  Late Blight: emergency response, remove immediately, notify extension and neighbors

Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com

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Every year, gardeners across the country watch their squash plants collapse overnight and have absolutely no idea why until it’s too late. The culprit is the squash vine borer, and it is one of the most misunderstood pests in the home garden.

In this episode, Karin Velez breaks down the full life cycle of the squash vine borer, including regional timing differences that explain why gardeners in Florida, Missouri, and New Hampshire are fighting very different battles. She covers the remedies that likely don’t work (no matter how many gardening blogs swear by them), the strategies that actually do, and how to build a prevention plan before you ever see a moth.

Whether you’ve been battling these for years or just lost your first plant to a mystery wilt, this one’s for you. Let’s dig in.

Quick-Reference: Squash Vine Borer Management at a Glance

Most susceptible crops: zucchini, yellow summer squash, acorn squash, Hubbard squash, pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo)
Less susceptible crops: butternut squash, cucumbers, melons, watermelon

Diagnostic sign: frass (greenish-yellow sawdust) at the base of the stem near a small hole

South: first flight May, 2 generations possible, adult activity May–October

Mid-country (MO, KY, OH, IN, VA): first flight mid-June, peak June–July

North (MN, WI, NH, PA, SD): first flight ~June 20, peak July 10–15, mostly finished by August 1

West Coast: rarely affected

What works: pheromone traps for monitoring, floating row covers (on clean ground), planting date manipulation, variety selection, timed stem sprays (spinosad, Bt, pyrethroids before larvae enter), fall tillage, post-harvest sanitation, surgical larva removal if caught early

What does not work once larvae are inside: all foliar insecticide applications

Episode References

Insect Netting: https://amzn.to/4vuYp7s
University Extension Resources

University of Kentucky Entomology — Squash Vine Borer (EF-314), Ric Bessin: https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef314
Ohio State University Extension — Squash Vine Borer Damage and Management: What to Look for and When to Act (ENT-0106): https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/ent-0106

Illinois Extension — Squash Vine Borer: https://extension.illinois.edu/insects/squash-vine-borer

Illinois Extension — Managing Squash Vine Borer in the Garden (Good Growing blog): https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2022-07-15-managing-squash-vine-borer-garden

Illinois Extension — Squash Vine Borer Has Arrived: https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/over-garden-fence/2024-08-20-squash-vine-borer-has-arrived

UMass Amherst Extension — Squash Vine Borer (CAFE Vegetable Fact Sheet): https://ag.umass.edu/vegetable/fact-sheets/squash-vine-borer

Penn State Extension — Squash Vine Borer: https://extension.psu.edu/squash-vine-borer

University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension — Managing Squash Vine Borer Problems in New Hampshire (Dr. Alan T. Eaton & George Hamilton): https://extension.unh.edu/resource/managing-squash-vine-borer-problems-new-hampshire-fact-sheet

South Dakota State University Extension — Biology and Management of Squash Vine Borer in the Garden: https://extension.sdstate.edu/biology-and-management-squash-vine-borer-garden

University of Minnesota Extension — Squash Vine Borers: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/squash-vine-borers

University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension — Squash Vine Borer: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/squash-vine-borer-melittia-curcurbitae/

eOrganic (USDA) — Biology and Management of Squash Vine Borer in Organic Farming Systems: https://eorganic.org/node/5300

ATTRA Sustainable Agriculture — Squash Bug and Squash Vine Borer: Organic Controls: https://attra.ncat.org/publication/Squash-Bug-and-Squash-Vine-Borer-Organic-Controls/

Peer-Reviewed Research

Middleton, E. (2018). Biology and Management of Squash Vine Borer (Lepidoptera: Sesiidae). Journal of Integrated Pest Management, 9(1), 22. https://academic.oup.com/jipm/article/9/1/22/5061838
Canhilal, R., & Carner, G.R. (2007). Bacillus thuringiensis as a pest management tool for control of the squash vine borer. Journal of Plant Diseases and Protection, 114, 26–29. https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF03356200

Canhilal, R., Carner, G.R., Griffin, R.P., Jackson, D.M., & Alvarez, D.R. (2006). Life history of the squash vine borer, Melittia cucurbitae, in South Carolina. The Journal of Agricultural and Urban Entomology, 23, 1–7. http://scentsoc.org/Volumes/JAUE/v23/1.pdf

Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com

Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses

Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop

Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/

Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething

Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething

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Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593

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Perennial weeds are in a different category than annuals. They don’t just re-seed, they regrow from the ground up, season after season, from root systems that can run three feet deep or spread fifteen feet sideways underground. In this episode, we’re tackling them systematically. First, a regional tour of the most aggressive perennial weeds in the U.S. - what they look like, how they spread, and why they’re so hard to beat.

Then, we work on management using Integrated Pest Management principles, starting with prevention and exclusion, moving through cultural and mechanical controls, and knowing when chemical options are appropriate.

Finally, we close with a hard look at the homemade internet sprays that are all over social media - and why some of them could do more damage to your soil than the weeds ever would.

Let's dig in.

References:

Montana State University Extension – Field Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) MontGuide MT201903AG

https://apps.msuextension.org/montguide/guide.html?sku=MT201903AG

University of Nevada, Reno Extension – Managing Field Bindweed (Publication 4834)

https://extension.unr.edu/publication.aspx?PubID=4834

University of Minnesota Extension – Perennial Weeds Identification Guide

https://extension.umn.edu/weed-identification/perennial-weeds

University of Minnesota Extension – Canada Thistle Identification

https://extension.umn.edu/identify-invasive-species/canada-thistle

University of Maryland Extension – Canada Thistle

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/canada-thistle

Colorado State University Extension – Canada Thistle

https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/canada-thistle/

SARE (Sustainable Agriculture Research & Education) – Canada Thistle: Manage Weeds on Your Farm

https://www.sare.org/publications/manage-weeds-on-your-farm/canada-thistle/

NC State Extension Plant Toolbox – Sorghum halepense (Johnsongrass)

https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/sorghum-halepense/

University of Georgia Extension – Johnsongrass Control in Pastures, Roadsides, and Noncropland Areas

https://fieldreport.caes.uga.edu/?p=62642

Schantz, M.C. (2025). Johnsongrass (Sorghum halepense): a review of its invasion, management, and spread in the changing climate of the Southern Great Plains. Weed Science, 73(e31), 1–7.

https://doi.org/10.1017/wsc.2025.7

University of Maryland Extension – Poison Hemlock Identification and Management

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/poison-hemlock-identification-and-management

Montana State University Extension – Poison Hemlock MontGuide MT200013AG

https://apps.msuextension.org/montguide/guide.html?sku=MT200013AG

Purdue Extension – Poison Hemlock: Invasive Plant Series (FNR-437-W)

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/fnr/fnr-437-w.pdf

Mississippi State University Extension – Kudzu

https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/kudzu

Mississippi State University Extension – Torpedograss (Panicum repens)

https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/torpedograss

UC IPM – Nutsedge (Yellow and Purple)

https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/WEEDS/nutsedge.html

West Virginia University Extension – Yellow Nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus)

https://extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/weeds/yellow-nutsedge

Penn State Extension – Japanese and Giant Knotweed

https://extension.psu.edu/japanese-and-giant-knotweed

University of Wisconsin Extension – Perennial Knotweed Identification (Mark Renz, Extension Weed Scientist)

https://renzweedscience.cals.wisc.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/177/2025/05/Perennial-knotweed-identification.pdf

Oregon State University Extension – Solve Pest Problems: Grasses & Grass-Like Pacific Northwest Weeds

https://solvepestproblems.oregonstate.edu/weeds/grass-like

Washington State University – Perennial Weed Control in the Pacific Northwest (PNW Pest Management Handbooks)

https://pnwhandbooks.org/weed/agronomic/corn/field-silage-seed/perennial-weed-control-quackgrass-field-bindweed-canada-thistle-johnsongrass-etc-0

Colorado State University Extension – Weed Management (IPM)

https://extension.colostate.edu/resource/weed-management/

NC State Extension – Extension Gardener Handbook, Chapter 8: Integrated Pest Management

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/8-integrated-pest-management-ipm

Washington State University – Weed Management (Pesticide Resources and Education Program)

https://pep.wsu.edu/weedmanagement/

UC IPM – Soil Solarization for Gardens and Landscapes

https://ipm.ucanr.edu/home-and-landscape/soil-solarization-for-gardens-landscapes/

University of Vermont Extension – Tarping, Solarization and Occultation

https://www.uvm.edu/extension/news/tarping-solarization-and-occultation

UConn Extension – Homemade Pesticide Issues: Understanding the Science (EXT014, Updated 2024)

https://extension.uconn.edu/publication/homemade-pesticides/

Ask Extension (Cooperative Extension National Q&A Service) – Vinegar, Salt, and Dawn Weed Killer

https://ask.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=888177

University of Florida IFAS Extension – Chapter 4: Integrated Pest Management (Weed Management Categories)

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/CV298

Resources:

Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com

Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses

Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop

Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/

Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething

Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething

Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething

Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593

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Mulch is one of the highest-return investments you can make in your vegetable garden and yet most gardeners are using whatever happens to be available rather than whatever would actually work best for their situation.

In this episode, we dig into the full lineup of organic mulches—straw, shredded leaves, wood chips, pine needles, grass clippings, and compost—as well as a shorter look at inorganic options like landscape fabric and black plastic.

For each type, you’ll learn how well it suppresses annual, perennial, and invasive weeds, how it handles moisture retention and heavy rainfall, how to apply it correctly, and what drawbacks to watch for in terms of pests, availability, and cost.

The bottom line: any mulch is better than bare soil. But the right mulch for your garden depends on your weed pressure, your climate, your crops, and your situation—and by the end of this episode, you’ll know exactly how to make that call. Let’s dig in!

Mulch Quick Reference

Best for annual weed suppression: Straw, wood chips, black plastic
Best for moisture retention: Wood chips, straw, compost

Best for slopes and heavy rain areas: Pine needles, wood chips

Best for soil building: Compost, shredded leaves

Best free options: Shredded leaves, grass clippings (herbicide-free), arborist chips

Best for soil warming: Black plastic

Avoid in vegetable gardens long-term: Landscape fabric

References:

Warnall School of Forestry and Natural Resources - Black Walnut Allelopathy: Tree Chemical Warfare: openscholar.uga.edu/record/22964/files/Walnut Allelopathy 11-10.pdf

Horticultural Sciences Department, University of Florida, Gainesville - Evaluation of Allelopathic Potential of Wood Chips for Weed Suppression in Horticultural Production Systems: ashs.org/hort/hort/published/rest/pdf-watermark/v1/journals/hortsci/40/3/article-p711.pdf/watermark-pdf/

University of Minnesota Extension — Mulching in the Home Garden: extension.umn.edu

Penn State Extension — Mulches for the Home Landscape: extension.psu.edu

NC State Extension Gardener Handbook — Mulching chapter: content.ces.ncsu.edu

University of Illinois Extension — Wood Chip Mulch: Landscape Boon or Bane: extension.illinois.edu

Cornell Cooperative Extension — Grass Clippings as Mulch: gardening.cornell.edu

University of Tennessee Extension — Using Leaves as Mulch and Compost: extension.tennessee.edu

Iowa State University Extension — Plastic Mulch in the Vegetable Garden: yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu

Michigan State University Extension — Landscape Fabric: Is It Really Worth It: canr.msu.edu

ChipDrop (free arborist chips): getchipdrop.com

Resources:
Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com

Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses

Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop

Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/

Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething

Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething

Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething

Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593

Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.